My Kitchen My Table

Roast Pork Loin Porchetta Style

One of the dishes that I made for A Platter of Figs cookbook club was the Roast Pork Loin Porchetta Style from the summer menu – Feeling Italian, part I. I also made the Cherry Tomato Crostini with Ricotta from this menu. I was excited to be able to use wild fennel and rosemary from my garden and bought my humanely raised pork from the Berkeley Bowl West – my new favorite grocery store.

The recipe itself was straightforward, like most of the recipes from this book. I rubbed the pork a day in advance and wrapped him in saran wrap for close to 24 hours before cooking. I halved the amount of pork but kept the amount of the rub the same and it was fine. I also added some chopped garlic and chopped rosemary to the rub. I cooked it in a Le Creuset pot and found that it needed a little extra time to make the 130°F internal temperature.

Here is the recipe to make as is or modify to your own taste.

6 pound pork loin roast with 1/4 inch fat cover
6 garlic cloves, sliced
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
Salt
Olive oil
Rosemary sprigs
Fennel fronds

Turn the pork roast upside down and insert the garlic slices into the loose flesh. Sprinkle the roast with the fennel seeds and black pepper. Season the meat generously with salt and drizzle a little olive oil over the top. Strip the leaves from a rosemary sprig or two, chop them roughly, and sprinkle them over the pork. Massage the seasoning into the roast.

Line a roasting pan with rosemary sprigs and fennel fronds. Set the roast on top. Cover and refrigerate for an hour or two, or better, overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Roast the loin for about an hour (about 45 minutes for a boneless roast), until the internal temperature reads 130°F. For a smokier flavor, cook the roast outside over coals to the same interior temperature. Remove the roast, cover loosely with foil, and let it rest for 15-30 minutes before carving.

Serves 8-10

Cherry Tomato Crostini with Ricotta Cheese

Two people made this appetizer for the cookbook club. The results were equally delicious and both cooks used tomatoes picked that morning from their gardens. Aren’t they pretty?

Make this crostini as much as you can for the next few weeks before the tomatoes have petered out. It is essential to use a high quality fresh ricotta to maximize flavor and be sure to use the red pepper flakes, the heat they give adds a nice surprise and depth.

I’m addicted… it’s been on the menu just about every night since the first time it was made.

1 large shallot, finely diced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
½ cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste with a little salt, plus another peeled garlic clove or two
2 pounds cherry tomatoes, halved
1 loaf Italian ciabatta
½ pound fresh ricotta
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
A handful of basil leaves

In a medium bowl, macerate the shallot in the red wine vinegar with a little salt. After a few minutes, whisk in the olive oil. Ass the pounded garlic and the cherry tomatoes, season well with salt and pepper, and toss gently. Leave to marinate for a few minutes.

Cut the ciabatta into ½ inch slices. Spread the slices on a baking sheet ans toast on both sides under the broiler until golden. Swipe the toasts very lightly with a peeled garlic clove. Don’t push too hard on the garlic – you want the bread to have just a hint of garlic flavor.

Spread a tablespoon of fresh ricotta on each toast, them put them on a platter. Sprinkle with a little salt and a little red pepper. Spoon the marinated tomatoes over the toasts. Sliver or tear the basil leaves and strew over the crostini.

A Platter of Figs from the summer menu – Feeling Italian, part I

A Platter of Figs

The next MKMT Cookbook is A Platter of Figs and other recipes by David Tanis, long time leading chef at Chez Panisse.

A truly gorgeous book; it is impossible not to page through and be hungry to get into the kitchen and cook up one of his seasonal menus then invite your favorite people over to gather around the table to nurture with food, wine and conversation.

The photography jumps off the pages and the styling is simple and rustic. The book is printed on matte paper – a trend I’ve found in the last few cookbooks I’ve bought.

Since it just arrived I haven’t had a chance to cook from it yet, but I’ve read through and love how each season is organized by menus. David Tanis is thorough in the forward explaining his methodology about food and cooking and each recipe is full of thoughtful instruction and how to wisdom. Throughout the book there is enlightenment about techniques (How to cook a rabbit) and ingredients (Parsnip Epiphany) making it both a pleasure to read and a volume to learn from for cooks of all levels.

And, as expected from the chef at Chez Panisse, all menus are driven by fresh and seasonal food and created to maximize the flavors of the ingredients.

I plan to try menu nine tonight. Shaved Summer Squash with Squash Blossoms, Grilled Halibut with Indian Spices and Yellow Tomatoes and Peaches in Wine. How’s that for a seasonal summer menu?!

Dinner Tonight

I am so enjoying my dinner tonight. It is the perfect blend of fresh, seasonal, and easy. I took the rosemary focaccia that I bought at the Alemany farmers market yesterday and topped it with fresh mozarella, sweet 100 tomatoes and basil from my garden and drizzled some McEvoy Ranch olive oil over the top. Popped it in the oven @425 degrees and while it cooked for 12 minutes tossed together arugula and the last of the lettuce from the garden with olive oil and balsamic sprinkled with s&p. When the focaccia came out of the oven I put the salad on top and poured a glass of chilled Sauvignon blanc and was good to go. Here is what it looked like half way through. The iPhone photo won’t do it justice so you’ll just have to believe and try for yourself. Buon gusto.

Boccalone Friday Food Cart

The food cart phenomena is sweeping the nation… well at least the last two cities I’ve traveled to, NY and Portland, OR and where I live, San Francisco.

Appropriately so, the Boccalone cart arrived in front of my office, – how adorable is the delivery dude in his red hat and Boccalone bike shirt?!

Several of us queued up in anticipation a good 15 minutes before the scheduled arrival time knowing that supply is limited and the previous week, the goods were gone within 5 minutes. My image of what I was waiting for was quickly squelched when the retro red bicycle rode up the sidewalk with a metal cooler attached like a basket. (I was either expecting the roach coach to putter up the street and park curbside or the push cart with grill and bell that I knew from living in LA years ago.)

Packed in the cooler were 30 mortadella sandwiches with spicy mustard on fresh Italian Bread accompanied with a few sliced pickles. The first 10 people got lard chips. Sadly, I was the 14th person in line but I heard that the lard was good. Is that the same as everything tastes good with bacon? Not sure, I’ll have to try the chips at the Ferry Building and get back about that. The crunchy pickles and sandwich were scrumptious and the excitement of the food cart was a welcome break to the monotony of the average lunch hour.

To find out where the Boccalone cart will show up next follow their Twitter feed @boccalone

GOOP, Tomato Sauce and Eggplant

When did Gwyneth Paltrow become a lifestyle guru with her website GOOP? And more importantly, what compelled me to sign up for the news letter? Of that I still can’t explain other than sheer curiosity. A few weeks ago, an email appeared in my box that had recipes for Gwnnie’s favorite tomato sauce, Eggplant Parmesan and Penne Arrabiata inspired by Giancarlo Giametti, Valentino’s longtime partner who is apparently a dear and longtime friend.

I’ll admit that reading the recipes left my mouth watering and inspired me to make my own batch of tomato sauce and Eggplant Parmesan. It just so happened that there was a can of whole tomatoes in the cupboard and everything else necessary to make my adaptation of the sauce. While it was simmering I went to the store and picked up the ingredients for the eggplant. Here is my version of tomato sauce and eggplant parmesan inspired by Gwennie who was inspired by GG… is it a stretch for me to call myself a friend?

First, make the sauce. Making your own sauce using canned tomatoes gives you the control to season it exactly to your taste. So much better than pre-made sauce from a bottle.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Red pepper flakes to taste
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1-28 oz can whole tomatoes
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and cook the garlic and red pepper flakes for 3-4 minutes until it smells really good. Add the basil and stir until it is coated with olive oil. Add the tomatoes and juice and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper and reduce heat so that the sauce simmers at a low level for 45-60 minutes.

Then, make the Eggplant Parmesan

3 eggplants
1 cup flour
Extra virgin olive oil
tomato sauce from above recipe
2 ½ oz fresh mozzarella, sliced into cubes
2 oz smoked mozzarella, sliced into cubes
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
2 oz grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper

Pre-heat oven to 350°F

Slice the eggplant into rounds 1/3-1/2 inch wide. Thoroughly sprinkle each side with salt and place in a single layer between two kitchen towels. Place a cookie sheet on top and weigh it down with something heavy so the water is squeezed out of the eggplant. This should take 20-30 minutes.
Put the flour on a flat dish and lightly dredge the eggplant slices on both sides. Heat 1/4″ of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the eggplant in a single layer, turn the heat to medium-high, and cook for about one and a half minutes on each side or until golden brown. Place the eggplant on paper towels to drain and repeat the process until all eggplant is cooked adding olive oil to the skillet as necessary.

In a 13″ x 9″ baking dish, arrange as many slices of eggplant as can fit snugly in a single layer. Drizzle 1/2 of the tomato sauce over the eggplant until it is covered. Sprinkle 1/2 of the mozzarella and smoked mozzarella over the top then sprinkle half of the basil leaves. Season with a little salt and pepper then add a second layer the same way as the first using remaining ingredients.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the cheese is melting, tomato sauce bubbling, and the top begins to brown. Serve with crusty Italian bread to mop up excess sauce and a crisp green salad.

Little Lemon Miracles

Two cooks showed up at the table having made these “little miracles”. They were little pillows of lemony goodness with sweet, fresh strawberries and mint garnish. The presentation spectacular!

Feedback on the recipe is that it made 2 more servings than indicated and of course, strawberries were substituted for raspberries. I think that blueberries would be delicious with this too… or a mixed berry combo….

Little Lemon Cakes with Soft Cream

These little lemon miracles ( I mean cakes) create two layers of completely different textures when they bake. On the bottom: a spongy, soufflé-like cake layer. On the top: tart lemon curd. A dollop of softly whipped cream adds just the right sweetness and richness, while the raspberries add a gorgeous punch of color. I promise you will love these fun little cakes. A big hug to my best chef friend, Gary Dnako for inspiring this.

Melted Butter, as needed, for brushing
Granulated sugar, as needed, for dusting
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons plus ¾ cup granulated sugar
5 large eggs, separated
Granted zest of 2 lemons
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ¼ cups whole milk
2/3 cup lemon juice, at room temperature
1 cup heavy cream, for topping
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract, for topping
Raspberries, for garnish (optional)

Brush 8 ramekins, 5 ounces each, with butter. Dust the inside of each of the ramekins with granulated sugar and tap out the excess. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Cream the butter and the 6 tablespoons granulated sugar until light in color and texture, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the egg yolks, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the lemon zest and flour. Add the milk and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites to soft peaks form. Add the remaining ¾ cup sugar. Continue to whip until stiff peaks form. Fold into the lemon mixture. Evenly divide the mixture among the prepared ramekins. Place the ramekins in a large baking pan and pour in boiling water to reach 1 inch up the sides. Bake until set, light brown, and skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 30 minutes. Cool completely.

Whip the cream to soft peaks and add 1 tablespoon of the confectioners’ sugar and the vanilla.

To serve, unmold the individual cakes onto dessert plates. Top with the cream and dust with the remaining confectioners’ sugar. Garnish with raspberries and serve immediately.

Serves 8

TO DRINK: Late-harvest Riesling

Recipe by Joanne Weir, from Wine Country Cooking

Risotto with Lemon Shrimp

The tip that Joanne shares is true, both people who made the risotto used her technique and it was oh so creamy! This is the perfect spring dish. Enjoy with a little gem salad and crusty baguette!

Risotto with Lemon Shrimp

A dish of lemon, shrimp, and rice is an ancient food combination in a multitude of world cuisines, probably because it tastes so good. Making good risotto requires a little time and patience, and a bit of muscle. Making great risotto requires a little trick I’d love to share: Just when the risotto goes beyond the chalky stage, remove the pan from the heat, and in this case, add a ladleful of broth, a bit of butter, the cooked shrimp, lemon zest, lemon juice, and the Parmagiano, and let it sit, tightly covered, off the heat for 5 minutes. Give it a stir and you have the creamiest risotto. Perfetto!

1 ½ pounds medium-size shrimp, peeled, deveined, and shells removed
2 cups bottled clam juice
3 cups water
1 ¼ cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium size onion, chopped
2 cups Arborio, Vialone Nano, or Carnaroli rice
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¾ cup grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese
1 ½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Whole leaves of fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Place the shrimp shells, clam juice, water and ½ cup of the wine in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low, cover, and simmer slowly for 15 minutes. Strain the shrimp stock and place in a saucepan on the back burner of the stove, adjusting the heat to maintain just below a simmer.

In a large heavy saucepan over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the shrimp and cook until they curl slightly, about 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup of the wine and reduce by half. Remove the mixture from the pan and reserve.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 7 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains with oil, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining ½ cup of wine and 1 ½ tablespoons of the lemon juice and cook, stirring, until the liquid evaporates, about 1 minute. Add about 1 cup of warm shrimp stock, stirring the rice constantly. When most of the liquid has been absorbed, add another ladleful of stock and continue to cook until the rice is just beyond the chalky stage, 18 to 22 minutes. If you run out of stock, use hot water.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the shrimp, a ladleful of stock, the butter, half the Parmagiano, lemon zest and the remaining 1 ½ tablespoons lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Remove the cover and stir. Place in serving bowls, sprinkle with the remaining Parmagiano, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Serves 6

To Drink: White Burgundy or Chablis

recipe from Joanne Weir Wine Country Cooking

Crostini With Fennel Sausage

In the book, it says that this is the easiest recipe in the book and uses the fewest ingredients. It was also one of the best recipes in the book and was the first recipe we tried on the night we met. What a way to start! It took longer to cook than the recipe said and in the end, we ended up turning the broiler on to top it off. We also found it interesting that the sausage isn’t cooked before assembling. We decided that was a good thing as the fats and juices absorbed into the bread to make it even more flavorful. This recipe is going to be a staple in our appetizer repertoire!

1/2 pound hot Italian sausage, casings removed
5 ounces grated fontina or crumbled Robiola or Taleggio cheese
1 teaspoon fennel seed, coarsely ground
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt
12 slices rustic coarse-textured bread, cut into 2-3 inch serving pieces

Preheat oven to 350F

Crumble sausage into a bowl. Add the cheese, fennel seed, parsley, and salt to taste. Spread onto the bread, distributing evenly. Place in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in the oven until golden and crispy, 15 minutes.

Serves 6

To drink: Sangiovese

Tapas: Sensational Small Plates from Spain

On the front burner of the MKMT cookbook club is Tapas Sensational Small Plates from Spain by Joyce Goldstein. Joyce is the first repeat author we have invited to the table. Last year, we cooked from Mediterranean Fresh and there has been no looking back. So, when her new book was released in April we thought we’d go Spanish for the night! Her son, master sommelier, Evan Goldstein has selected Spanish wines to pair with each recipe.

Here is a summary of qué cocina en la cocina…

An expert in Mediterranean cuisine, Joyce Goldstein brings the warmth of Spain across the Atlantic with this delightful array of tapas recipes. These treats are small, savory, and perfect for an evening in with friends. Whether reliving a delicious trip to a tapas bar in Spain or discovering these small-plate delights for the first time, readers will find Goldstein’s 60 recipes authentic, easy to make, and pleasing to the palate. Nothing could be a better accompaniment to a lingering glass of Catalonian wine than a few bites each of Fried Marcona Almonds, Chorizo Sausages Sautéed in Cider, and thin slices of Serrano Ham. With a short history detailing the origins of Spanish cooking, Tapas will have crowds of fans asking for más.

Viva las tapas!!

Join us by posting your recipes and comments. Buy Tapas from Chronicle Books