My Kitchen My Table

MKMT Cookbook Review – A Platter of Figs

It was another day of good cooking and eating as the MKMT Cookbook club gathered to share recipes from A Platter of Figs by David Tanis. The timing was perfect for the summer menus and all but a couple of the recipes that were made came from these menus which meant a lot of seasonal produce and several duplicate dishes.

Overall feedback about the book was positive. The package is beautiful with gorgeous photography and it is well written with thoughtful anecdotes interspersed throughout the pages. We liked how the book was laid out by season and then by menu and how simple most recipes were with the focus being quality of ingredient. The author writes an introduction to each menu that includes information about how to think like a cook, use your instinct around the kitchen and improvise in addition to following a recipe. Reading and cooking from A Platter of Figs can make us all more comfortable in the kitchen and better able to stare into the refrigerator and pull out a few ingredients and whip something up on our own.

One cook at the table commented that he thought “the introduction was a little arrogant, but since the author is the chef at Chez Panisse gives him justification to be opinionated”. Another cook commented that “the quality of the ingredients is so important to the recipes that it is a bit pricy for every day cooking”.

The recipes are all supposed to serve 8-10 people and some of us halved them to make smaller portions, making them more realistic for a family meal or dinner for 4 vs. a larger dinner party.

Menus and Recipes that were made included:

Too Darned Hot, Alors! Menu Eight
Lavender Honey Ice Cream three of us made this ice cream and each was quite different. Mine had the least amount of lavender flavor and was the lightest in color despite the fact that I picked the lavender that morning fresh from the garden. The two others had more intense and pronounced lavender and honey flavor and were also darker in color. We all used plain honey as the lavender honey suggested in the recipe was spotted at $15 for a jar.

Slightly All-American Menu Eight – we made this whole menu.
Sliced Tomatoes with Sea Salt – it doesn’t get much more straight forward than this and with the heirloom tomatoes at their peak this dish couldn’t have been easier to make or tastier. Grilled Chicken Breasts were succulent and packed with flavor.
Corn, Squash, and Beans with Jalapeño Butter was the most time consuming of the recipes in this menu and the jalapeno butter packed a punch.
Blueberry-Blackberry Crumble – there were 3 of these so one we didn’t cook and put in the freezer! The two we ate were both delicious, although as expected, there were subtle nuances between them.

Yellow Hunger Menu Nine
Shaved Summer Squash and Peaches in Wine were both made and both wonderful – how can one go wrong with squash and peaches both in their prime.

Feeling Italian, Part I Menu Ten
Cherry Tomato Crostini with Ricotta is addicting and incredibly easy – a must make several times in the peak of tomato season.
I made the Roast Pork Loin Porchetta Style and needed to adjust the recipe a bit as well as cook slightly longer that the recipe calls for. The menu was finished with the Nectarine and Raspberry Macedonia - peaches and nectarines and stone fruit and berries oh my!

The final recipe from the summer menus was the Cold Pink Borscht in a Glass from Hot Day, Cold Chicken Menu Twelve. There seems to be a trend developing around the table that there is usually something made with beets that is fuchsia! As a non-beet eater ( I think they taste like dirt but keep trying to acquire the taste) I loved this soup and slurped it up.

One of the recipes that fell outside of the summer menu, was Mustard Rabbit in the Oven - spring and a whole lesson about how to cook rabbit. This dish was so savory with Dijon mustard, Crème Fraîche, and pancetta, how could be a bunny be bad? This is a must make for romantic dinner or small dinner party entree. It is unique and flavors unparalleled. Chef Tanis even includes a recipe for home made crème fraîche for those so inclined. He is convinced that commercial product is sub-par – this recipe is also referenced in the Lavendar Honey Ice Cream.

It is far to say that this cookbook should be a staple on the cookbook shelf. It makes an excellent gift for a favorite seasoned home chef. Since many recipes are guidelines and leave some finessing up to the cook, I wouldn’t suggest it for someone who isn’t comfortable in the kitchen. Because of the organization by season it is fair to say that we will likely pull it out again for a winter MKMT cookbook club so we can dive into recipes like Green Chile Stew, Walnut Cigars, and Osso Buco with Orange, Lemon, and Capers.

Roast Pork Loin Porchetta Style

One of the dishes that I made for A Platter of Figs cookbook club was the Roast Pork Loin Porchetta Style from the summer menu – Feeling Italian, part I. I also made the Cherry Tomato Crostini with Ricotta from this menu. I was excited to be able to use wild fennel and rosemary from my garden and bought my humanely raised pork from the Berkeley Bowl West – my new favorite grocery store.

The recipe itself was straightforward, like most of the recipes from this book. I rubbed the pork a day in advance and wrapped him in saran wrap for close to 24 hours before cooking. I halved the amount of pork but kept the amount of the rub the same and it was fine. I also added some chopped garlic and chopped rosemary to the rub. I cooked it in a Le Creuset pot and found that it needed a little extra time to make the 130°F internal temperature.

Here is the recipe to make as is or modify to your own taste.

6 pound pork loin roast with 1/4 inch fat cover
6 garlic cloves, sliced
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
Salt
Olive oil
Rosemary sprigs
Fennel fronds

Turn the pork roast upside down and insert the garlic slices into the loose flesh. Sprinkle the roast with the fennel seeds and black pepper. Season the meat generously with salt and drizzle a little olive oil over the top. Strip the leaves from a rosemary sprig or two, chop them roughly, and sprinkle them over the pork. Massage the seasoning into the roast.

Line a roasting pan with rosemary sprigs and fennel fronds. Set the roast on top. Cover and refrigerate for an hour or two, or better, overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Roast the loin for about an hour (about 45 minutes for a boneless roast), until the internal temperature reads 130°F. For a smokier flavor, cook the roast outside over coals to the same interior temperature. Remove the roast, cover loosely with foil, and let it rest for 15-30 minutes before carving.

Serves 8-10

A fabulous bar story.

by Louie du Monde

The du Monde has found a wonderful bar story from Jeff Burkhart, an award-winning bartender and author.

It had all the symptoms of a first date. For her it was big hair, a slinky dress and new jewelry. For him it was gelled hair, an uncomfortable sport coat and a whiff of cologne. As soon as they sat, she excused herself to go to the restroom.

“Order me a drink,” she whispered as she leaned in close enough for her billowy coiffure to touch his gelled one. Perhaps she had a hair out of place, or needed a dab of powder or even because she needed to use the restroom. Who knew? But it was now her date, me and their drink order.

Read on at Here Magazine.

Crème Brûlée Cart

The food cart phenomenon hit San Francisco as hard as NY and Portland. Clearly, this is old news, but I am a fan of the food cart and have enjoyed their goodness, value (maybe not always), and convenience in all three cities. While people are tiring of the food cart, I am sure they are here to stay and will continue to support the good ones and the talented entrepreneurs who are giving their all out of making a living pursuing their passions.

Curtis “the crème brûlée guy” came to my office a while ago. Orders were placed days ahead of his arrival – brilliant on his part to know both how much to make and be able to prep in advance. When he arrived, all that was left to do was burn the sugar and garnish. The whole downstairs smelled like burned sugar – roasted marshmallows – YUM!

The flavors offered included Bailey’s Irish Cream, Dark Chocolate, Orange Cream, Lavender, and Vanilla Bean. It was hard to limit myself, I could have tried them all, but in the spirit of not being too gluttonous chose the lavender and was a satisfied customer! I hope he comes back soon so I can sample more flavors….

Cherry Tomato Crostini with Ricotta Cheese

Two people made this appetizer for the cookbook club. The results were equally delicious and both cooks used tomatoes picked that morning from their gardens. Aren’t they pretty?

Make this crostini as much as you can for the next few weeks before the tomatoes have petered out. It is essential to use a high quality fresh ricotta to maximize flavor and be sure to use the red pepper flakes, the heat they give adds a nice surprise and depth.

I’m addicted… it’s been on the menu just about every night since the first time it was made.

1 large shallot, finely diced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
½ cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste with a little salt, plus another peeled garlic clove or two
2 pounds cherry tomatoes, halved
1 loaf Italian ciabatta
½ pound fresh ricotta
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
A handful of basil leaves

In a medium bowl, macerate the shallot in the red wine vinegar with a little salt. After a few minutes, whisk in the olive oil. Ass the pounded garlic and the cherry tomatoes, season well with salt and pepper, and toss gently. Leave to marinate for a few minutes.

Cut the ciabatta into ½ inch slices. Spread the slices on a baking sheet ans toast on both sides under the broiler until golden. Swipe the toasts very lightly with a peeled garlic clove. Don’t push too hard on the garlic – you want the bread to have just a hint of garlic flavor.

Spread a tablespoon of fresh ricotta on each toast, them put them on a platter. Sprinkle with a little salt and a little red pepper. Spoon the marinated tomatoes over the toasts. Sliver or tear the basil leaves and strew over the crostini.

A Platter of Figs from the summer menu – Feeling Italian, part I

Farm City

If you care about what you eat and where it comes from, read this book. It is honest, heartfelt and shocking at times as Novella Carpenter opens herself and her experience as an urban farmer in the rawest of forms. It can be uncomfortable, but always the reader feels like they are having an intimate conversation with Novella about her experiences; which I found to be irresistible.

I first saw Farm City the week it came out as a staff pick at Powell’s bookstore in Portland. I read a little and thought it looked intriguing. Not sure why I didn’t buy it there, but I bought it a week later and once I started reading, couldn’t put it down; it was done in one sitting.

Novella lives in the ghetto in Oakland with crack ho’s and drug dealers. She is a squatter on the lot next to her apartment, and raises livestock in her backyard… bees, chickens, turkeys, ducks, rabbits, pigs, and goats.

Each chapter is a dialog about what’s going on with the garden, animals, and often most interesting, her psyche. The book was written a couple of years ago and now I am addicted to her blog which is updated regularly. Novella is an incredible voice and resource for raising livestock in an urban environment as well as putting the moral dilemmas that she is faced with on a daily basis out there for us to think about.

I’ve been sucked in, and what she writes about inspires me to think about what I grow, what I eat, where it comes from, and yes, I’ve even considered raising farm animals myself… if only I had the space or lot to squat on…. or maybe the community garden would be open to bee hives and chickens….

As ironic as it sounds, some of the most beautiful parts of the book and blog is the spiritual component of how the animal is honored before its life is taken. There is a tremendous amount of respect for each animal, from the humane way it is raised, the quality of food it is fed, how it is nurtured and loved as it grows, and finally, the way it meets the maker. Every animal is honored and all parts of it are put to good use.

Shortly after reading the book I had the opportunity to meet Novella. She was exactly as expected which made her even more authentic. This woman is a true urban farmer and a pioneer of once conventional but now unusual practices. Cheers to her and the thoughts and conversations that her metheods provoke in us.

Please don't ask for my photo.

In San Francisco this week. One of the the bosses of the du Monde, Lynda Zuber Sassi, the owner of this blog, asked the du Monde to drinks and to meet the “must be met” Lou Lesko. She looking elegant and Parisian in a gorgeous dress and over the calf boots. He looking like a cliché Californian with a white t-shirt under a v-neck sweater. At least he had good shoes. Hardly a saving grace, but enough to keep the du Monde from feigning a headache and abandoning the whole affair.

We find ourselves at the Wine Merchant in the Ferry Building at the port of San Francisco. Ms Zuber, a citizen of the city, walked here. Mr. Lesko took the ferry in from Marin clearly afraid of the Gestapo-esque parking authority of the San Francisco.

The du Monde enjoyed the atmosphere of the Wine Merchant and moreover was incredibly appreciative of the vast knowledge and kind demeanor of the proprietors. Yes, the du Monde loves to drink, but when it comes to the flavors of the vine – well the choices in California can be overwhelming. The Wine Merchant is a comfortable place to learn more or to put yourself in the hands of the servers.

The evening went well. That is up until the point that Lou Lesko, the photographer, asked the du Monde for a date to shoot pictures. The du Monde sloshed his wine around a bit in the glass before taking the final swig. “The du Monde does not submit to the camera. There are too many international warrants displaying the name Louie du Monde.” I took my leave.

Picnic at Preston

For many years, Preston Vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley has been one of my favorite places to visit. A family operation, one truly feels like they are in another world after passing through the gate and driving down the dirt road lined with olive trees and vineyards. It’s like the feeling of security that Holly Golightly has upon entering Tiffany’s – nothing bad can happen to you here.

It is always a treat to spend the afternoon here, walking through the organic gardens, tasting wine, lounging lazily around one of the tables in the sun enjoying a picnic and connecting to being in that place for that time, not thinking about anything else.

Of course, there are the vineyard cats and kittens who provide limitless entertainment as they lurk around the property looking for a scratch and a nibble, passing by each table to see who has the best handouts.

On Sundays there is the Guadagni Jug. Available on a first come first serve basis, the Jug has become a local tradition since it first started in 2002 as a tribute to neighbor, Jim Guadagni. Today, people like me drive from a far to participate too. I envy the regulars who bring their jugs week after week so covered with labels (they give you a new one each time) that you can hardly see the glass anymore.

“Guadagni Red” comes in a 3 liter jug which is literally filled by the spigot straight from the barrel and when the barrel is dry, the ration for the day is complete. They say that it is a blend mostly of the grapes that Jim knew — Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, Carignane — and looks and tastes like the wines that he enjoyed as a young man. From the line up of people who stream in on Sundays, it is safe to say that those tastes of yesterday are equally enjoyed today.

National Salami Day

This morning I read that we should all eat a salami sandwich today to celebrate National Salami Day. Who know that Salami had a national day named after it?!

Salami is part of the salumi family. Salumi is a general term used to describe Italian-style cured or preserved meats. It is similar to the French term charcuterie which seems to be more broadly recognized. Most types of salumi are made from pork, in fact, Boccalone, a shop and food cart in the Ferry Building whose motto “tasty salted pig parts” sums it up nicely.

In the Bay Area, there are several restaurants whose chefs specialize in making salumi and offer salumi platters as a house specialty. Usually it is served with complimentary cheeses, toasted bread and sometimes nuts or olives to round out the offering.

I am sad to say that one of the salumi pioneers in SF, Chris Lee recently shuttered the doors of his restaurant, Eccolo in Emeryville. We can only hope that Chef Lee opens a salumi shop in the near future.

But fear not, there are several Bay Area restaurants that feature salumi including Bar Bambino in the Mission, Incanto in Noe Valley, Adesso in Oakland and there’s Diavola Pizzaria and Salumeria in Geyserville (where this picture was taken) – definitely worth taking a trip for both the pizza and salumi.

If you’re curious to learn more, check out these books that do a good job of shedding light on the process as well as providing practical recipes utilizing salumi. Salumi, cookbook by Joyce Goldstein that features recipes utilizing various types of salumi, and Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing by Michael Ruhlman.

Mark your calendar for next year’s Salami Day – on September 7, 2010 it will be here again!

Julie/Julia

by Louie DuMonde

Since the du Monde is always in a state of “must be seen at night” in bars of the world, you’ll think it odd that I attended a movie last night. But Julie/Julia is worth an evening of sobriety in a dark theater for a fabulously well done movie about one of my heroes, Julia Child.

Writer-director Nora Ephron adapted two memoirs for the screenplay – Julie Powell’s “Julie & Julia” and Julia Child’s “My Life in France.” Meryl Streep does a fantastic job of portraying Julia Child. As I watched the movie I couldn’t distinguish the Streep character from my memory of The French Chef television show that I used to watch on public television with my mother.

As the movie probably has a limited audience because of the niche subject matter, get out to the theater soon before this gem goes away. Then I highly recommend having a look at the original Julie Powell blog, the other half of the story. It’s a fun read especially after seeing it in the context of the movie.