What is a Luxury Hotel in Kentucky
What does “luxury” really mean when used to describe a hotel? I just returned from Kentucky and had three very different hotel experiences which left me pondering this question.
The first place I stayed was the Gratz Park Inn. Located in the historic district of Lexington, this property touts itself as a “timeless, classic, luxury boutique inn.” It also calls itself an inn with a “pedigree.” 
I arrived late and was greeted by the convivial late night manager. Having gotten lost on the way there I had spoken with him more than once trying to navigate the one way streets that Maggie (the GPS) wasn’t able to figure out. By the time I arrived, it was like I was seeing a new friend. I checked in and ordered a Manhattan from the bar of the five-star Jonathan at Gratz Park Inn restaurant that is connected to the inn. I was in Kentucky and after a full day of travel it was time for some good old Kentucky bourbon.
The lobby lived up to the description on the website and in reviews and had a luxe, club feel with leather chairs and richly upholstered sofas. I imagined men in their khaki and seersucker suits and ladies in their sundresses and hats lounging and laughing over mint juleps throughout the decades. I felt the spirit of tradition and southern hospitality oozing from the walls and was looking forward to retiring to my room to be ensconced with the feeling of the south.
The elevator took me to my room on the second floor. I turned the key and walked in with high expectations. What I found was a tired and shabby space in need of repair and updating. The carpet was stained – thankfully I had my travel slippers so I didn’t have to put my feet on it. There were off-color patches of paint on the walls where touch ups had been done and some paint was chipped off. The 80’s wallpaper in the bathroom was peeling off, and the counter, sink, and fixtures were reminiscent of the 80’s laminate/ faux marble with gold specks and plastic and brass fixtures. The mirrors didn’t live up to my standard of clean either. In the bedroom, the armoire that held the television didn’t close all the way and the thermostat had a hole in the wall around it – apparently the patchwork and repainting had yet to be done – or was it even in the queue to be done? The desk chair was soiled with stains on the upholstery and most of the furniture – desk, chairs, dresser, had chips and dents on the legs. Parts of the ceiling were warped and moldy with paint bubbling and peeling. Finally, there was a jumble of all the electric cords in the corner – couldn’t someone have tied them neatly together or run them along the baseboard? The one redeeming feature – the king sized Tempur-Pedic bed, at least I had a good night sleep.
The second accommodation, also in Lexington, not downtown but in horse country, bordering Versailles (pronounced ver-SALES, go figure, I was corrected several times thanks to my college French), was a B&B – Swann’s Nest. I thought it would be interesting to try a B&B in the middle of the horse farms. Rosalie Swann, the proprietor was a gracious hostess and the grounds were gorgeous. I entered the gate key and drove down the long drive surrounded by Kentucky horse farmland on all sides. Swann’s Nest is a traditional red brick estate with stately white columns. This was the house that Rosalie and her husband built and raised their family in. Upon his death, she decided to turn it into a B&B. And B&B it is in all senses. I stayed in one of the front bedrooms that had an en suite bathroom. It was comfortable and homey. The public areas in the house are lovely and full of horse and Derby paraphernalia. Swann’s Nest gives one the feeling that they are a part of a Kentucky horse breeding family and Rosalie is full of stories and information about the business of horse racing and breeding. For really, it’s the breeding that is the focus in this land, more so than the racing, while that’s important, the real $$ is to be made in the business of horse sales. The only downside of Swann’s Nest that I was unaware of when booking – is that this is a smoking residence and while my room was upstairs I felt that there was serious second hand smoke going on to the extent that after two nights, all of my clothes smelled like I was the one who was the smoker not to mention my sore throat and allergies had kicked in full force! It is most unfortunate, for aside from this significant issue, Swann’s Nest is one of the most authentic B&B’s I’ve stayed in.
The third property, in Louisville was the Brown Hotel. This historic hotel in downtown Louisville known for its opulent two story lobby was the gem amongst the three. Upon check in I was upgraded to the club floor that had an extensive breakfast and afternoon cocktails each day. My room was spacious, comfortable, and well appointed. I moved right in and spent the last three nights content in luxury. The concierge in the club room anticipated and looked after my every need. While in Louisville, there were severe storms and a tornado warning. Between the weather and work, I had room service two out of the three nights. I loved how at the end of my order, the waiter said in a spirited voice “thanks for calling me!” This is a place that I would recommend and return to the next time I visit Louisville.
Over the course of the seven nights I was in Kentucky I had three very different hotel experiences. Looking back, I am glad that I experienced each of them and while there is one that I likely would not return to, one that if it were non-smoking, I would return to they helped shape my overall experience in Kentucky. It also reinforced the fact that when one travels, it is imperative to be open minded and flexible with accommodations, restaurants and activities. It is often when things don’t turn out as expected that a pleasant surprise or learning experience results. For me, the accommodations were secondary, it was the time spent in Kentucky with my Dad that was priceless.
Stay tuned for more about the bourbon trails, horse farms, and a few restaurants of Kentucky.
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