Smoky Ham and Corn Chowder

Mario Batali once said that his three favorite words are “wrapped in ham”. While this chowder isn’t wrapped in it, it is infused by it – I am certain that Mario would approve.
I served this chowder as part of a cocktail buffet party on a cold night in November. I was looking for one dish to serve as an anchor of sorts—something that was more than bite-sized, but not a full-blown main course. I ladled the finished chowder into my slow cooker, placed it on the buffet, and set it on “warm.” Throughout the evening, guests helped themselves to bowls of chowder, which had the double effect of shaking off the late-fall chill and making everyone feel right at home. You will notice, as you read through the ingredient list, that the recipe calls not only for ham but also for bacon and smoked pork chop. As a resident of Virginia for more than a dozen years, I feel obligated to avail myself of the wonderful selection of pork products from my adopted home state.
Serves 8 as a main course or up to 20 as part of a buffet
4 slices thick smoky bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
4 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound good-quality smoked cooked ham, cut into 1/2-inch dice (see Cook’s Note)
2 small boneless smoked pork chops, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 large yellow onions, diced (about 4 cups)
2 to 4 jalapeño peppers, minced, depending on how spicy you like your chowder
2 red bell peppers, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 green bell peppers, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
5 medium red potatoes (about 2 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch dice (peeling is optional)
2 fresh bay leaves
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika
1/2 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder (you may substitute cayenne if you do not have chipotle powder, but you will lose the smokiness of the chipotle)
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
8 to 10 cups best-quality fat-free, low-sodium canned chicken broth
1 16-ounce bag frozen roasted corn, thawed (if you are unable to find frozen roasted corn, use regular)
1 cup heavy cream
Place the bacon in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot and cook it over medium heat until it begins to brown and render its fat, about 7 minutes. Add the butter, ham, and pork chops and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the meat is lightly browned. Stir in the onions and jalapeño peppers and sauté, stirring often, until the onions are softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the red and green bell peppers, potatoes, bay leaves, and thyme. Sauté until the peppers and potatoes are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the salt, sweet and smoked paprika, and the chipotle powder and stir to combine. Sprinkle in the flour, stirring all the while to prevent lumps from forming.
Pour in a cup of chicken broth and stir well to combine it with the flour. Gradually add an additional 7 to 8 cups of broth, depending on how thick you like your chowder. Cover the pot partially and simmer the chowder gently over low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, until all of the vegetables are tender. Stir in the corn and cream and bring the chowder to a simmer. Serve immediately.
Cook’s Note: For a three-letter word, ham is a complicated subject, as I learned when I moved to Virginia. There is dry-cured ham and wet-cured ham, country ham and city ham, baked ham and smoked ham, salt-cured, and sugar-cured. And that is only the beginning. For this recipe you want a good-quality basic cooked ham that has been smoked. You should be able to find it in the deli department of your supermarket.
Do Ahead: You can make the chowder a day in advance, up to the adding of the corn and cream. Refrigerate the chowder in a tightly lidded container. When you are ready to finish the chowder, bring it to a simmer in a large pot. Add the corn and cream and heat through until it is just bubbling.
Big Night In
More Than 100 Wonderful Recipes for Feeding Family and Friends Italian-Style
by Domenica Marchetti
2008 Chronicle Books
Leave a Reply